As always, we recommend watching our videos below. This is an easy DIY project, but if you do not regard yourself as being a bit 'handy' (not handsy, that's entirely different) then this might not be for you.

Trunk/Boot

1. First, this involves things (hinges, heavy trunk lids etc) that could claim one or more of your fingers. Please take care, and ensure you have a helper to hold the trunk open while you're working on it.
2. Both the factory struts need to be removed. Ensure you've put a towel over the glass where you're working, so that if something flies off or the strut flops onto the glass, no damage is done.
3. With someone holding the trunk open, use a medium flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the top and bottom of the struts. You do not need to completely remove them, just popping them out half way is enough.
4. Now remove the strut. You might need to lift the trunk a bit further to take the strain off the strut - it should come away with almost no effort.
5. Repeat the same process for the other side, remembering to protect the glass, and to always hold onto the trunk - it's heavy when not supported by the struts, and no fun at all if it comes crashing down.
6. Now take one of the replacement struts. All you need to do is push them over the 'ball lug' on the car. The red spring should be at the bottom, nearest the trunk opening on both sides. Start with the bottom, then the top. You will need to lower the trunk slightly to fit the top of the strut. You do not need to remove the clips.
7. Now repeat for the other side. Do not release the trunk until both struts are fitted, and you've verified that they are snapped on correctly. You should be able to apply quite a bit of force and they will not come away from the ball socket.
8. That's it! Closing the trunk requires a little additional force, since the last part of closure is compressing the red 'launch springs'. This is normal.

A big thanks to Brian at i1Tesla, as this was his idea while fearlessly messing around with his Model 3!

Frunk

1. First, this involves things (hinges, heavy frunk lids etc) that could claim one or more of your fingers. Please take care, and ensure you have a helper to hold the frunk open while you're working on it.
2. Both the factory struts need to be removed, one by one. It's easy, but they occasionally need a little encouragement, so be sure to protect any paintwork nearby.
3. With someone holding the frunk open, use a medium flat-blade screwdriver to release the spring clips at the top and bottom of one of the struts. Do not completely remove the spring clip (as you'll never get them back on), just popping them out half way is enough.
4. Now remove the strut. You might need to lift the frunk a bit further to take the strain off the strut - it should come away with almost no effort.
5. Replace with the upgraded strut. Pay attention to make sure you have it the right way up, use the other factory strut as a guide. All you need to do is push them over the 'ball lug' on the car. . Start with the bottom, then the top. You might need to lower the frunk slightly to fit the top of the strut. You do not need to remove the clips.
6. Now repeat for the other side. Do not release the frunk until both struts are fitted, and you've verified that they are snapped on correctly. You should be able to apply quite a bit of force and they will not come away from the ball socket.
7. That's it! Closing the frunk requires a little additional force; this is normal.